Garment having a resilient section



C. R. ANDERSON GARMENT HAVING A RESILIENT SECTION April 28, 1953 2 SHEETSSHEET 1 Filed Oct. 19,1950

' nvmvron CARRaLL-RANDERJON A TToRN: vs

April 1953 C. R. ANDERSON f 2,636,368

GARMENT HAVING A RESILIENT SECTION Patented Apr. 28, 1953 GARMENT HAVING A RESILIENT SECTION Carroll R. Anderson, Minnetonka Beach, Minn., assignor to Munsingwear, Inc., Minneapolis, Minn., a corporation of Delaware Application October 19, 1950, Serial No. 190,990

13 Claims.

This invention relates to resilient fabrics and to garment structures composed completely or partly of such fabrics. In many garments it is desirable to construct the whole garment or portions of the garment from fabrics having a resilient characteristic in one or more directions. Thus, for the manufacture of girdles or corsets, for body support and as a foundation garment, certain areas or all of the garment can desirably be constructed of fabrics' knitted from rubber-elastic yarns. Such elastic yarns are knitted under tension and after knitting the yarn tends to contract and the fabric accordingly assumes a smaller size in its relaxed condition than when under tension across the fabric. Such fabrics made of rubber-elastic yarns knitted under tension are well known and have a great usefulness but unfortunately are subject to relatively short life. However, at the present time knitted resilient or stretchable fabrics that are knitted from rubber-elastic yarn are the best that are available for use in such garments as girdles, in the waist bands of pajamas, shorts, wristlets and the like. The principal disadvantage of fabrics knitted from rubber-elastic yarns is that the elastomer which is used as the resilient base of the yarn, whether of natural or synthetic type, is subject to short life and accordingly a garment composed of such materials may lose its stretch in a matter of months of wear or even during shorter times. Furthermore, the deterioration occurs on the shelf and in. order to obtain the most service from such garments they must be merchandised and used within a reasonable time after being made. Such stretchable fabrics made of rubber-elastic yarns, regardless of whether the rubber is natural or synthetic, are particularly subject to deterioration due to laundering, for water and detergents markedly reduce the life of such elastic members. Since laundering is essential in the use of most fabrics that are used for body garments, thisreduction in life of the garment due to laundering has had to be accepted as one of the inherent limitations of such fabrics.

It is an object of the instant invention to provide an improved stretchable fabric having long service life and to provide garments made of such-fabric. ""It is another object of the invention to provide elastic fabrics knitted from yarns composed of polyamide condensation products, said yarns being selected from a specified range of sizes and having a ratio of the number of filaments to the 2 denier size of the yarn in a specified ratio range.

It is another object of the invention to provide a knitted elastic fabric of long life and serviceability.

1 It is also an object of the invention to provide garments composed in whole or in part of the aforesaid fabrics.

The invention is illustrated with reference to the drawings in which corresponding numerals refer to the same parts and in which Figure 1 is a fragment of a representative fabric made in accordance with the instant invention;

Figure 2 is a front elevational view of a mans short having an elastic waist band composed o the fabric of the instant invention;

Figure 3 is a front elevational view of a pajama trouser or other trouser element for men, women and childrenhaving a waist band composed of the elastic knitted fabric of the instant invention;

Figure 4 is a fragmentary view showing a portion of a sleeve having a wristlet composed of the knitted elastic fabric of the instant inven- 1 tion;

Figure 5 is a fragmentary sectional view showing the sleeve with an inner wristlet composed of the elastic knitted fabric of the instant invention;

Figure 6 is a front elevational view of a ladys corset or girdle composed of the fabric of the instant invention. In this view the left leg of the corset is shown in pattern view, the right half of the garment is folded and deflected so as to permit the left half to lie flat. In Figure 6 the right half of the corset would assume approximately the shape shown by the dotted lines if not so deflected; 1

Figure '7 shows a glove having a wristlet composed of the elastic fabric of the instant invention;

Figure 8 shows a front elevational view of a man's casual short having a gathered waist band; the inner elastic portion of which is composed of the knitted elastic fabric of the instant invention;

Figure 9 is a sectional view of the waist band mer yarn having a denier size in the range of 100 to 300, said yarns being composed always of a plurality of filaments. in the yarn must be such that the ratio otthc number of filaments divided byflthe idenierfsis'e number is in the range fro'inil;02th'0,15 est results are obtained when the ratio of the number of filaments in such yarntothe denier size.

number is in the preferred range of 0.03 to 0.1 The knitted fabric is preferably a l x 1"ribknit fabric, but other knitted fabrics, such as the knit "fabric iriay"also be used, although "the l x' l fijib knit iabri'c is "preferred because of its inherent greater stretch transversely of the 'di rection of knitting. I Thus, in accordance 'with the invention the fabric "maybe knitted rrom'ya s composed of the stated linear condensation products in the 'sizer'angefrom 100 "to '300. Forexainple, denier sizes 100 hav g rrom 2 to filaments each yarn are satisfactory where ininimumelasticity transverselyof the fabric is'desirfed. Where a greater elasticity transversely "of-the fabric is desired, the denier size of the yarn is increased, ror=eamp1e 'yarns of 200 denier size and having a nu'mber of filaments ranging fromab'out d to about may be utilized. Likewise, where still greater elastic strength is i needed, yarns of size 250 denier and having number of filaments riai n about?) to about ass- "are satisfactbry. For I maximum transverse "ensue strength, yarns of 300 deniersize are utilized having 'ahumber ornaments ranging'from about 5 to about'd. It will be appreciated that tlie'number of filani'ents inthe yarn may tanned: somewhat out of the stated ranges and likewise slightly larger c'rsi'naller denier sizesth'an those stated they be utilized. For best results, howei enthe ratio "of the number of filaments to the denier 'si zenumber should be heldin the approximate range of; 0.02to'0.l5 andthedenier size shouldb'e'from about IQO to about 300. I I

For mostgar'ments, "such as the'waist bands on rnens shorts, girdles or' corsets or the'like, the elastic'fabriccan be knittedfrom nylon yarn of 260' denier having 17 filaments with excellent resuits and the ffabric'used in sin le enmultiple thickness depending upon the degree of elasticity and support needed. Thus, fort'he men's short shown in Fig. 2 the'main body of the garment generally designated H3 is composed of cotton or rayon knitted fabric I! which has no resiliency worthy of mention. The garment fabric Hhas a stretchiness at the waist band areain the direction 'of the double arrow H! but the inherent resiliency of cotton, rayon or similar knitted fabrics is insufficient to maintain the garment in place on the wearer without utilizing some additional support by way of aspecial waist band. Accordingly.. it has been customary to provide a waist band at 15 which is wo en from yarns composed 'ofv rubber, elastic. such fabrics being woven with therubber-elastic yarn under tension. In accordance with this; in ention the wa ba st mme -19 Flt-1933 1 kl'li i' mm Wins fi 'i sed 9 ine ft. ens u The number 'of filaments.-

4. polymer having a denier size in the approximate range of 100 to 300 and a number of filaments such that the ratio of the number of filaments divided by the denier size of the particular yarn is in the range of about 0.02 to 0.15. The waist band [5 in the garment shown in Figure 2 is made double by taking a portion of the fabric and folding it over so that the fold comes at the flipper edge It. The two cut portions of the fabric are then stitched to the main body of the garment by means of an elastic stitch along "the lines II, it being understood that such stitching H is of any style which will stretch in the double arrow 12?) direction of stitching (i. e. in the direction of Thus, a triple interlock ftime fastening such'waist band to the main body of garment IR. The waist band is thus permitted to stretch'in the direction of the double arrow Hi.

The direction of knitting of the fabric in the waist band Iiiis in the'dirctioh (if the cours arrow 19. Thus, the length (or direction of knitting) of the kniftedfabric'riins lip shadows in respect to the garment iii. More explicitly, the fabric "shown in Figure 1 reatiily =stretehs in the direction ofthe double'arrow S '(wlii'ch'is transverse to the direction of knitting of the fabric) and stretches vem ntnsmme direction of double arrow NS, which i s' thedirection the fabric was knitted. Accordingly, when 'the fabric of Figure l'is'usedin a easements-1am so that the direction S will orrespond to the direction in the garm'ent in "which resiliency is desired. t

By using a foldedbver pie'ceof such fab'ric' 'at land by attaching it'tothe n'iain body'o'fthe garment in a distended "conditieh by "means 'of an elastic stitch, the waist band l 5 is permitted to colitractto its relaxes position-as shown in Figure 2. Howeverjwhen applied toth'e wearer the waist band ISstletchesOut andassumesa position asdeter'min'ed by thesiz'e 'of' -the wearers waist. However, unlike-the prior elastic waist bands that are woven with rubber elastic, the resilient fabric of that "saris invention do'es hot have a quick elastic-recoyery to its initial'size' and hence does not "pull against the wearer with the same unrelenting force as ischaracteristic "of fabrics "woyen'with rubb'er elastic yarns. Thus,

for example; asize 36 nians short of the pattern shown inl fig'ure Z niad'e in: accordancewith the presentinvntion, the'i'ength of thewaistba'nd is 24 inches (or l2 inches as measured acrossith'e dimension W' cf'the garmenrshown inFig'ure 2).

- In' an exe'mplary case the wearerhada body size of 36 inches around the waista'ndwore a garment such as that shown in stem-e2. which seemsingly distended" the waist band i 5 to the 36-inch dimension. iWhjen removed fromthe'wearei"the waist 'band of, such garment contracted within a few minutes'jto 32jihclies '(that is'to 'say IG inchesjacros's the dimensionWof Figure?) but when the garment wasTpermitted ma num-cs the wearer, however, as for example when' the garment was remoted 'atnight'ahdthenmeasured the following niorni'ngjtlie' waist band was" then found to have etmractee to its original 24-inch size (12 inches as'hiasiiied acress the dimension W) "which is the proper dimension fer a size"36 garment. Thus, the.- immediate elastic recovery isslow er, "which is an adyanta'ge-ftir it makes the garment f'eel better andyet the ultimate elastic recovery'is inyariably tsmepraper size of -theg'ari t F ii ii e efsfil hiteeh i i s arages continue throughout the life of the garment, even outwearing cotton and synthetic fabrics of which remainin portions of the garment are constructed.

In Figure 3 there is illustrated another form of similar pants or trouser garment, in this instance a pajama 29, the main body 2!] of which is constructed of knitted or woven fabric according to any desired pattern. In this instance also the waist band 22 of the garment is composed of one or more plies of fabric knitted in accordance with the present invention. Attachment of the waist band 22 is by means of a line of stitching 23 which is resilient in the direction around the garment, such stitching being a triple interlock or similar stitch. The fabric composing the waist band 22, as previously described, is attached to the fabric so that the direction of knitting of fabric is up and down, as shown in Figure 3, by the direction of arrow 24!, whereas a direction transverse to the direction of knitting of the fabric (corresponding to direction S of Figure 1) is in the direction of the dimension line 25 of the garment in Figure 3. The waist band in this instance also is made by folding over a piece of fabric so as to provide a double thickness, thus providing a rolled or folded edge along the top of the waist band at 26. If desired, however, the waist band may be knitted of single thickness with a self-edge at 26 and a ravel edge at 23 and the ravel edge sewed to the garment to which the waist band is applied.

The fabric forming the waist band or other elastic member of the garment may be knitted either as a tubular knit fabric or a flat knit fabric, the tubular knit being preferred for such applications as underwear, waistbands, wristlets, etc. The fabric is preferably knit in a variety of tubular sizes corresponding to the various garment sizes to which the fabric is applied, thus dispensing with any seams vertically through the fabric. However, such a vertical seam is of no particular disadvantage where it is desired to make a belt opening, the belt being otherwise resilient.

In Figures 4 and 5 there are illustrated two forms of sleeves in which a fabric of the instant invention is utilized with particular effectiveness. Thus, the sleeve 30 shown in Figure 4 is provided with an exposed wristlet at 3| which is attached to the main body of the sleeve by means of resilient stitching along line 32. Similarly, the sleeve 35 shown in Figure 5, which for example may be a jacket, coat or four coat sleeve, is provided with an inner wristlet 36 which is attached to the sleeve by means of the stitchin 31.

In Figure 7 a wristlet 38 similar to those in Figures 4 and 5 is attached by means of the stitching 39 to a glove Gil. The wristlets of Figures 4, 5 and 7 may very desirably be composed of fabrics made from the lower denier numbers in the range above specified and are preferably knitted-as tubular fabrics and used double. A section of such fabric is cut off and folded over, the two out edges being brought into juxtaposition with the fold as at 33 in Figure l, 3 in Figure 5 or at 4| in Figure '7. The cut edges are then bound in place and sewed to the main body of the sleeve or glove by an overlook stitch or similar stitch which is stretchy in the direction of stitching, and binds the cut edges. Special advantage is achieved by utilizing the herein described fabrics for construction of girdles or corsets, such as illustrated in Figure 6. Thus, in the girdle shown in Figure 6 the garment is entirely composed of the resilient 6. fabric of the instant invention,'thefabric'being laid in the garment so that the direction NS of Figure 1 corresponds to the direction of arrows 59, 6|, $2 and 63 of Figure 6. In Figure 6 the left half of the girdle generally designated 55 has been laid out fiat as a pattern and the right half necessarily deflected so as to permit the left to lie flat. Thus, the girdle has a waist band 5 l52-53. The fabric of the left half of the girdle is cut so that it lies along the pattern 51-52, thence along the center line 54 and which then curves at'56 to the crotch center 51, the pattern then extends along the curved line 58 which forms the inner seam on one leg to the point 59 and thence along. the lower termination of the leg as the line 58-450. The direction of knit of the fabric is as shown by the dimension lines 50, GI, 62, 63 and a direction transverse to the fabric (correspond-' ing to direction S of Figure 1) corresponds to the dimension lines 6% and 65. The latter dimension line 65 extends entirely across the left half of the garment and the right half of the garment and indicates the direction in which the garment is resilient. simply by folding in the upper edge of the garment which is then stitched along the line 5168 utilizing an overlook or double interlock stitch which is capable of stretching in the direction of the line of stitching. Likewise. the lower line of the leg 5960 is also stitched along the line 69'id with a similar line of stitching. A front garter support is supplied at H and a rear garter support at l2 for each of the two legs of the garment. The crotch of the garment is reinforced by inserting on the inside a second thickness of material which is stitched along the line l2-'l3-'M--15-l6. Such crotch insert may be dispensed with in light weight vgarments, if desired. It will be understood that the right half of the garment is an enantiomorphic duplicate of the left half and that in Figure 6 the right half has merely been deflected so as to permit the left half of the garment to show as a pattern. It will also be understood that the front elevation of the garment, as shown in Figure 6, and that the back portion of the garment includingthe seat may be cut slightly fuller than the front so as to allow say along the dimension lines 5|J6|--6263 isrelatively small and the garment does not stretch materially in this direction". The center line:

seam 5254555I does not need to be materially elastic and any form of overcast stitch sufficiently strong to fasten the two portions of the garment together is satisfactory. The garment has excellent body retaining characteristics and yet does not exert the unrelentingv tension exerted by the rubber-elastic type of knitted fabric. Thus, it is possible for the wearer, when wearing a garment such as that shown in Figure 6 made 65 garment has been removed. Thus, the foundation garment does exhibit a desirable principle not heretofore achieved in elastic foundation garments. Any area of the garment; such as the abdomen section may be made of multiple thick- The waist line 5 |52--53 is achieved acetone 1.. nets. o inc as the; degree. Qf. body support. Th s. hep ttinnici the arment between lines. 65 and-'51 may be made: in. multiple. thicknesses if desired;

In Figures; 8 and 9. there; is. illustrated another form of garment. made in accordance with the instant; invention. In this garment, which is a. manfs casualishort used. as an outer garment, the; mainbody of the garment generally de sig-. hated au, may be. coin-posed of woven or knitted fabric. which.- initself has no appreciable elas: tlcity-., The garmenthas a right leg portion 3!: and, a lettleg portion and has 2. m open n atta, thelegsbeing tcrminateda S-l and or. they may be made longer or.- of full pant. length, desired.v The waistband 3;! of the garment is gathered in at 89. and is stitched toan internal waistbandflfl composed of fabric made in accordance. with, the: instant. invention. Thus, refer.

riliQtQ-Figure- S-the fabric Silis composed of two 133763 91 and. 92 folded together. The fabric fill-on the inside of the waist band is stretched. to thcfull Size of, the, waist band 8? and. is then stitched alOng, its upper edge St. and its lower edge. 95; These. lines of stitching area tripleine terlock stitch-or, any'such. form of stitch which is elastic in the dircctionof stitching. As soon stitched, the garment is released and it recovers elastically, thus causing anumber of convolutions 93. tobe formed-bathe. exterior fabric which is not. elastic- Inmany' garments it is. desirable to provide resilient sections. or. panels which only partially encircle the. body or body member. Thus, in. some cQr-Setsand girdlcsresilient panels are provided at. the sides. and legs, the remainder of the .5381. ment. being of; non-resilient fabric. Likewise, in

manywaistband applications a part of the waist.

band; Such as that, part-of. the waist band around. thebztck ofthe garment, may be resilient. While the. remainder. is non-resilient. The woven fabric. of this invention has especial usefulness; in. such applications for the fabric need only be. sewed in with the. direction transverse to the, direction ofwearlng (direction S of Figure 1) arranged thev direction. in which resilience (stretch) is desiredtobepmvided. Thus, shorts, pants, girdles, and belt lines. may be provided.-

whichprovide a contiiolling resilience in the garmentat. the points desired, with assurance that the garment, siaewill remain accurate throughouttheliie of the garment.

As. many apparentlywidely difierent embodi-.

ments of this invention may be made. without dcpartingfrom thespirit and scope thereof; it is to be understcodthatldo not limit myself to tbespeciiic embodiments. herein.

What; claimis;

1. In. a. garment having a resilient section, theimprovement. in. which said section is formed of a rib knitted fabric. in which the yarn is made up of a plurality. of..filaments composed of a linear condensation polymer, the size of such yarn being;

improvement in which said-section is formedof a rib knitted fabric in which the yarn is made up of-a plurality offilamcnts Composed of a linearcondens'ationpolymer, the size of such yarn being; in the range of aboutloc to 300 denier and the; number. of: filaments. in-. the arn being 88,-.

laste hat t e ic of be. n mb of file merits divided by the denier size number is in therange of 0.03 to 0.10.

3. In a garment having a resilient section, the. improvement in which. said section is, formed of a. rib knitted fabric in which the yarn is made. up of a plurality of filaments composed of a fiber forming polyamide, the size. of such yarn being. in therange of about to 300 denier and the. number of filaments in the yarn being selected so. that. thc fatio of the number of filaments divided by the denier size number is in the. range ofv 0.02. to 0.15.

4,. In a garmenthaving a. resilient section, the. improvement in which. said section. is formed of arib knitted fabric in which the, yarn is made. up of. a plurality of filaments composed of nylon, the size of. such yarn being in the. range of about. 1.00 to 300 denier and the number of filaments. inthe. yarn being selected so thatthe. ratio of the. number of filaments divided by the. denier size number is in the range of 0.02 to 0.15.

5. A garment having a rib. knitted fabric por-. tion thereof for at least. partially encircling a. part of the wearers body in an encircling direc.-. tion, said knitted fabric portion being further. characterized in that it is knittedfrom. a multiple, filament yarn composed of fiber forming polyamide material, the denier number of said yarns. being. in the range of about 100 to 300 and the. number of filaments in the yarn being such that. the ratio of the number of filaments divided by thedenier size number is in the range of 0.02 to 0.1 5; Said knitted fabric being oriented in the. garment so that a direction transverse t the. direction in which it is knitted corresponds substantially to said encircling direction.

6'. A garment having 21. waist band, at leastv a portion of said waistband being composed of a.

sponds substantially to the direction in which.

the waist band extends.

7. The garment of claim 6 further characterized in that said waist band is knitted as a tubular knit fabric having a circumference corresponding to the waist band.

8. The garment of claim 6. further characterized in that said waist band is formed by folding a portion of said knitted fabric to form a folded edge, said folded edge being positioned so as to be the upper edge of the waist band.

9-. A wrist encircling member comprising a.

rib knit fabric knitted from a multiple filament yarn composed of fiber forming polyamide material, the denier number of said yarns being in the range of about 100 to 300 and the number of filaments in the yarn being such that the ratio of the number of filaments divided by the denier size number is in the range of 0.02 to 0.15.

10; A waist encircling member comprising a tubular knit fabric rib knitted from a multiple filament yarn composed of fiber forming poly amide material, the denier number of said yarns being in the range of about 100 to 300 and the number of filaments in the yarn being such that the ratio of thenumber. of filaments. d1.-

tion, at least a portion of which is rib knitted from a multiple filament yarn composed of fiber forming polyamide material, the denier num-- ber of said yarns being in the range of about 100 to 300 and the number of filaments in the yarn being such. that the ratio of the number; of filaments divided by the denier size number i is in the range of 0.02 to 0.15.

12. A pajama comprising a body encircling section, at least a portion of which is rib knitted from a multiple filament yarn composed of fiber forming polyamide' ma'terial, the denier number of said yarns being" in the range of about 100 to 300 and the number of filaments in the yarn being such that the ratio of the number of filaments divided by ,the denier size number is in the range of 0.02 to 0.15.

13. A garment having a rib knitted fabric portion thereof for at least partially encircling a part of the wearer's, body, in an encircling direction, said knitted fabric portion being further characterized in that it is knitted from a multiple filament yarn composed of fiber forming polyamide material, the denier number of said yarns being substantially 260 and the number of filaments in the yarn being approximately 17, said knitted fabric being oriented in the garment so that a direction transverse to the direction in which it is knitted corresponds substantially to said encircling direction.

CARROLL R. ANDERSON. 

